🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble place securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary triumph.